Cardin, Pierre

(1922- )

   Born in Italy but raised in France as Pietro Cardini, Cardin studied architecture for a short time and then learned the trade by working at several important fashion houses: Paquin, Dior, and Schiaparelli. At Paquin, he had the opportunity to work on the costumes for the 1946 film, La Belle et la bête. However, it was at Dior (1946-1950) that he mastered his tailoring skills and opened his own business on the previous rue du Chevalier. He showed his first collection in 1953 in Paris. Cardin opened his first boutique for women in 1954 and a second for men in 1957. Always very much in tune with the shape of a garment, Cardin focused on the geometric sculpting of the fabric with the highest standards of craftsmanship. In the 1960s, Cardin embraced the world's fascination with space-age style and he experimented with vinyl and metal in combination with traditional wool. His clothing was minimalistic for both men and women. Unlike his contemporary, André Courrèges, he did not promote pants for women. Instead, Cardin created patterned tights that either blended with his mini dresses or complimented the dress's design. In 1970, Cardin took a radical approach to the miniskirt and created the controversial maxi dress.

   Always a trendsetter, Cardin recognized the importance that stretch fabric had in the future of fashion and went so far as to send knit T-shirts down the runway with his beautifully tailored couture garments. He was a pioneer in the industry by being one of the first to commercialize ready-to-wear alongside the couture collection. Cardin took his famous name and attached it to the Paris restaurant Maxim's, which he purchased in 1981. By the mid-1980s, a chain of restaurants existed around the world. Cardin changed the business of fashion forever with his branding and marketing savvy and by creating a licensing empire. By the 1980s, the famous Cardin logo could be found on a vast range of products; and many in the fashion world felt Cardin had overexposed his name to the point of creating a negative connotation. Yet, Cardin built an empire that succeeded in making him one of the wealthiest fashion designers—one who boasts approximately 900 licenses. In 2006, the Pierre Cardin Museum opened in Saint Ouen, a northern suburb of Paris, containing more than 1,000 examples of his work.

   See also Haute Couture.